Provincetown Pilgrimage

The curving tip of Cape Cod nicknamed “P’ Town” offers much more to see and do than in 1620, but a robust Pilgrim spirit remains four centuries later. Provincetown is naturally stunning with sand dunes, heather and sea pines. Its incredibly diverse community of 3,000 swells to 60,000 in summer thanks to visiting families, boaters, artists, beach lovers, party goers and a vibrant LGBTQ community. Pride flags fly high in this small seaside peninsula that epitomizes fun, friendliness, seafaring tradition and social open-mindedness. Ironic in that it all started with a Puritan landing.

When you visit, dock or moor your boat at Provincetown Marina. Located in the heart of Provincetown Harbor, it’s the place for yachters with 100 slips along Fisherman’s Wharf, 85 moorings and efficient dockhands at the ready. From this modern, well-kept marina, you are steps away from P’ Town’s shops, galleries, dining, beaches and bike rentals, or you’re a quick dingy ride to a secluded sandy beach if the bustling town is too much on a peak summer day.

A must-visit attraction is the Pilgrim Monument, a 252-foot-tall tower that commemorates the Mayflower’s 1620 touchdown. If the 1910 iconic granite monument resembles Siena Italy’s, that’s by design. Pay $12 to power up its 116 steps and 60 ramps for a breathtaking panorama view above sea level over P’ Town’s picture-perfect harbor.

Province Lands Bike Trail, a five-mile bicycle loop from Province Lands Visitor’s Center on Race Point Road, passes by hills, dunes, cranberry bogs, beautiful beaches, and through shady forests. Reserve your bike ahead with Gale Force Bikes (a short walk across town) for $12 for two hours to ride the loop or spend the day savoring beach and picnic time.

A stroll down Commercial Street is a feast for the eyes, ears and senses. The parade of humanity is as entertaining as the colorful kitschy boutiques that sell things nautical to naughty. The quaint New England sidewalks are lined with brilliant flower boxes, homey cafes and hip shops.

When you’re ready to hit the beach, start with Bayside Beach in town overlooking the harbor. It’s accessible with plenty of sand at low tide and stranded row boats, too. Race Point Beach is spectacular, earning Cape Cod National Seashore distinction for its soft sand dunes stretching around P’ Town’s tip beyond the old Life Saving Station to the Lighthouse. Race Point’s name references the racing currents crossing here, so beware of swimming and be on the lookout for whales off shore. Herring Cove Beach on P’ Town’s west side is another popular seaside location.

P’ Town’s three lighthouses guard the treacherous peninsula where more than 3,000 shipwrecks have been recorded. Built in 1816, Race Point Light is the granddad marking P’ Town’s northwest tip. Erected in 1872, Wood End Light perches on the southern spit, while the 1827 Long Point Light marks the northeast hook and is often photographed for its square pattern.

To explore P’ Town’s culinary scene, start at Relish, a cozy café and deli for homemade breakfast sandwiches or picnic provisions for the beach. The Mews Restaurant & Café dishes up outstanding seafood fare, displays stellar views at the window seats, and specializes in fresh fish or Lobster Vindaloo. The Squealing Pig has fish n’ chips that folks go hog wild for at lunch and dinner.

P’ Town is a party town, with grand night clubs such as The Piano Bar at Crown & Anchor, and the Post Office Café & Cabaret have lively entertainment. Ross’ Grill has a scenic upper deck on Whalers Wharf for quiet drinks overlooking the harbor, with a glimpse into the Crown & Anchor pool party next door.